Taping the Deck

Once the deck is cured, you pull off the bazillion pieces of tape and remove it to glass the inside. The first step is to tape the inside seams along the long panel joints. In the photos below you can see the tape along the joints behind the cockpit and the resin/wood flour fillets where the tape runs over the doublers in front of the cockpit. The tape is lying in the filler and is not completely wet out, yet. I taped every seam around the cockpit, which even at the time seemed unnecessary, since this area would also be locally glassed. Turns out it was unnecessary and I had to get additional tape. This was not a bad thing–it’s nice to have a bit extra to fully tape the deck-to-hull joint on the inside. 

Cockpit - Tape and Wood Flour Filler Detail

After taping the long seams, don’t forget to put the deck back on the hull to cure. I did not have to use the compression block and extra pressure to make it fit nicely in this step. The previous cure seemed to take care of the misalignment.
trial fit the coaming

Trial fit and Mark the Coaming

The next step is to reinforce the cockpit area and deck recess, which is shown above, a bit out of sequence. Before removing the deck the second time, it would be a good time to trial fit your coaming pieces. The deck is the right curvature and fit and you’ve pretty much got to wait a whole cure cycle here before you can do much of anything else.

scrape all the tape edges

Scraping the Tape Edges

Previously, on the “Glassing the Hull -Inside” page, I described scraping all the tape and trimmed edges. You’ll find that one edge of the tape is rolled and presents a fairly big burr once it cures. This comes off easily if scraped within 10-12 hours of being applied. You do have to be careful, however, if you use the full width scraping tool mentioned on an earlier page. You can catch a corner of it in the “V” of deck joints and cut the tape right where it’s supposed to provide strength. 

When you wet out the inside of the deck, there is a trick that can save you a bit of sanding later. If you get some peel ply and place it along the underside edges of the deck, you won’t have to sand that area when you get ready to join the deck to the hull. The peel ply needs to be fully wetted out in order to be effective. The resin won’t adhere to it and you can pull it off, leaving a nicely rough surface. This is perfect for getting a good joint with the tape. It’s a little more difficult to do this on the inside top edges of the hull (which are the mating surfaces for the hull-to-deck tape joint), since you wet out the hull and then apply fiberglass almost all the way up to where the pull ply would be, but there is room for it.

Peel Ply at the Deck-Hull Joint