The coaming installation is divided into two parts because of the way I glassed the coaming lip and because I colored my coamings to make the Tern (and the Coho, for that matter) more recognizable in swarm of Pygmies.
Selecting the color and saturation took a bit of experimenting. I used a resin compatible colorant called Mixol, available at Wood Crafters in almost any color. In the end, I wanted colors that were complementary to the basic color of the glassed okume, so red and blue were out. Yellow just wasn’t strong enough to stand out against the brown okume. So the Tern got green and the Coho got orange. You can see from the photo that you can get almost any saturation you want. I elected to use 6 drops per 1-1/2 oz cup of resin. The color plate was made with wetted out glass cloth on a scrap of plywood.
Glassing the coaming lip was a challenge. You’d think a person would try this on a similarly shaped part before doing the whole thing, but noooooo. The coaming was draped with three pieces of cloth. The overlaps were roughly above where the seat braces would be installed and at the front. As it turned out, some fairly narrow pieces covered the whole lip and draped down inside to the hull, with some vigorous smoothing action. The resin was applied with a roller, with the thought that this would achieve a uniform thickness. Once the cloth was wetted out, kleenex were used to push and hold the edge of the cloth under the lip (it has to be rolled fairly tight and not allowed to touch the edge, just the underside). This was going to leave a rough and not very uniform overlap, but in the end it worked out fine. It only required minimal sanding with coarse sand paper to remove the kleenex pieces and the edges of the cloth that didn’t adhere to the underside of the lip. On the inside, the resin was allowed to get sticky, then the cloth was smoothed by hand as far under the hull as it would stick.
The final coaming looked OK. Not perfect, but certainly OK for a first effort. Two additional layers of fill were applied over the glass to smooth it and give it more color saturation.
The color would have been more uniform if I hadn’t used color in the resin that wetted out the cloth. The fill coats could have been more controlled, as you can see in the following photos. The first photo shows the effect of different thickness of fiberglass cloth that held the fist coat of resin.
The second photo shows the effects of vagrant pieces of thread and the slight roll at the edges due to the stiffness of the cloth. The bottom line here is that anything that changes the thickness of the cloth layer will change the color saturation if you use colorant in the wetting out resin–it’s better to use the color only in the fill coats.